Topic: knit a longs
10/6 edit: corrected snafu in sleeve length/rounds worked.
With just the sleeves left to finish, we come to one of the BEST parts of seamless knitting: professional looking results as you just knit along. I cannot tell you how many sad sleeve seams have walked into Countrywool, looking for new life. This is actually one of the BIG topics at next spring's Rip Van Winkle FORENSIC KNITTING Retreat. Finishing is an art form, and the more you understand grafting/kitchener stitch/weaving, the better you get at it.
But, I digress. Let's get to the main event.
The sleeve stitches are waiting for your circular needle to get slipped into them, and for more of them to be picked up at the underarm and connected in the round to be worked down to the cuff. If the sleeve length you want is greatly different than the length in the pattern, you will need to adjust where the decreases are located, so give me a shout.
When the buttons are sewn on, button them into their matching eyelets. You will notice that you have to urge them to get connected at first. That's OK and to be expected before you block this sweater. When you wet block it, the buttonholes you have chosen will stretch bigger from the water. You may choose to overcast their edges after the first couple of wearings if you have a hard time finding them, although I have not found that to be an issue.
SLEEVES
Overview: Sleeves are knit across existing stitches on needle holders, and then one stitch for each Cable Cast On stitch is picked up across underarm. In the first round, two stitches are decreased. The sleeves are knit in the round down to the cuff area; decreasing 2 stitches at the center spot of the underarm every few rounds as noted. Row gauge is important when determining sleeve length, so after the first 4" is worked, a gauge check will keep things on track. If your row gauge is TIGHTER, (more rounds to the inch than the pattern), you will have decreased all the stitches you need to SOONER, so all stitches will be worked evenly around after the number you need is reached. If your row gauge is LOOSER, (less rounds to the inch than the pattern), you will not be able to decrease all the stitches you need to, so will need to DOUBLE UP ON SOME INCREASES to get rid of the stitches you need to before you reach the cuff area. Both of these fixes will look absolutely fine IF you make each sleeve exactly the same way.
SIZES: 36 40 44 48 52 56 60 64
Sleeve: With right side facing and 16" larger sized needle, INVISIBLY JOIN yarn at the right side of underarm stitches that were cast on at the Body Joining Round. Pick up and knit one stitch for each cable cast on stitch
of underarm: ___ stitches to add.
14 16 18 20 20 22 24 24
Work across sleeve stitches on holder in established stockinette stitch, until one stitch BEFORE last one, then K2TOG (last stitch of sleeve stitches and first stitch of underarm stitches), knit across underarm stitches to BEFORE last one, then K2TOG (last stitch of underarm and first stitch of sleeve stitches). Find midpoint of underarm stitches and place a clip marker between two stitches here to denote BOR.
___ stitches total now on needle.
62 70 76 82 88 94 100 106
You will work___ rounds in total (not including 1"/8 rounds for cuff),
105 112 119 126 133 140 147 154
to achieve a sleeve length of___".16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23
Mark the center of the underarm stitches as BOR. Work 4" evenly in knit (this is a good place to lengthen/shorted sleeves), then decrease every 5th round on either side of this marker by:
*SSK, Knit marked stitch, K2TOG*.
When you have reached ___ stitches, decreasing will cease.
42 46 50 54 58 62 66 70
Work evenly around the stitches in pattern as established until almost ___" from the underarm.
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22
CUFF
With smaller 12" circular needle or double pointed needles, decrease 6 stitches evenly in the next knit round, then:
Work in *K1, P1* rib for 4 rounds, then PURL 4 rounds more.
Work a SEWN OFF BIND OFF for maximum stretch.
Make 2nd sleeve as first sleeve. Darn in ends. Sew on buttons where desired.
(Women's buttons are traditionally on the left). Wash and lay flat to dry block.
